As we took on another day, we are traveling to Linz and then going back to Munich and finally on to Salzburg. We have been to both beautiful towns but wanted to reconnect and enjoy them once more.
We had such an awesome travel mate today. We caught the 9:30am train from Prague Hlvani to Linz HBF and then on to Munich tonight. Settling into our carriage we were assigned a private room for six. Kay was a Professor of Bio Chemistry in lower Czech, Bohemia. She had immigrated to Scotland after WWII to avoid the rise of communism. In her words the Americans were so close and her family and countrymen wished so much that they had traveled the last 175 km to Prague rather than the Russians. A history lesson well taken from the perspective of an amazing woman who made half of our five-hour trip seem instantaneous. We were sad to see her leave, making a smaller train connection but not before she invited us to come visit her one day writing down the address in her own pen.
The expanse of the Czech Republic countryside is not unlike other European countries. It varies in tree species, farmland and little towns dotting the rolling and distant hills. Once our guest left our train car we played a little music and gazed out the window.
Linz is a quiet little town on the Danube River. It is just a quick stop for us today and I’m glad that was our choice. With train travel you are restricted to the town centers and outlying sites and scenery is left to car travel. No matter we found a few things to occupy our two plus hour excursion before we need to train it to Munich. The Linz Castle is on the only hill surrounding the town offering a birds eye view of the sprawling city, but other than that to us it had no other redeeming qualities. Plain and matter of fact it was closed so no chance to see the real jewel I’m sure. We enjoyed walking the narrow streets outside the pedestrian zone that was also home the easily used tram system just ride 1, 2 or 3 from the HBF to old town center. We happened upon an authentic cafe and bakery that sold us a Linzer Torte. It is the oldest ‘cake’ in the world, mentioned by name as early as 1653. That might be quiet true as they put it into a beautiful box and said it will keep for two months unrefrigerated, it might be close to the twinkie theory. I will taste it later:)
We were helped at the OBB station getting our tickets by Stefanie would along with so many others are the most helpful to us. Not sure if we look lost often or not, I think we know what we are doing but perhaps the panic face goes undetected to us. Another fast train to Munich, Railjet 66 are so comfortable. We unfortunately got on the part of the train that was going on to Innsbruck rather than Munich so at the next stop we prepared ourselves to quickly jump out onto the platform and rush down five cars to the correct wagon. Wunderbar!
Munchen HBF is a large station but we easily found our Ansfarht (Exit) out into a rather seedy neighborhood to the Marriott Courtyard. It was evening so checkin was available. I asked him how to get to Marienplatz, he replied you go to room and freshen up, then I will get you to center in a quick ten minutes. Not sure what he meant but I guess all day of riding trains and walking narrow cobble streets makes you look disheveled:)
Working on adding to our mileage (average ten mile per day so far) as we were close for the day, against Kellie’s need for safety we trotted to the center of old town Munich in the evening dusk. The center had thinned out but still bustling with tourists we went by many of the sites and straight on to the biergarten district. No trip would be worth it unless you got to see the Hofbrauhaus. I had a stein of Dunkles beer and warm Bavarian Apple Strudel while Kellie simply a cold still water to quench her thirst. We slowly made our way through the lights of the old town and retreated to our hotel telling ourselves we would not be in a hurry to get up as this was the second late night for us.
True to our word we slept longer than usual so hurriedly ate breakfast and packed for the later train ride that day. A very filling breakfast with just the right amount of options including berries, juices and a block of bees wax to dribble sweet fresh honey onto your bread or oatmeal.
Not having much time we took advantage of the 11:00am Glockenspiel doing its daily traditional story telling after the chimes of the hour. With marionette music filling the square, the top characters have a joust ending in the death of one while the bottom story is of a dance to bring fresh vitality to fearful dispositions at the time of the plaque.
Once the rooster crowed three times we veered off to experience the marketplace so full of vendors and their various wares. I of course got a local sausage, we purchased a small hand full of local cherries and split a juice of erdbeere (strawberry), orange and banana.
The train system is so efficient, we have learned how to get on and off as well as in and out of these stations. Some are modern others ancient, certainly a people watching locale.
When you arrive in Salzburg it has a sense of music…probably because of the famous Sound of Music but it also is the home to Mozart and they really promote that throughout the town. We have been here before so we do not want to retrace much of what we have accomplished. Walking about town it is difficult not to cross over SOM sights, the beauty to your eye is so true and must be captured in a photo. You feel so inclined to break out the selfie stick and document the view.
A trip to Salzburg would not be complete without a trip to the Augustiner Brau. Upon arriving its unimposing frontage, a simple door with a Monk symbol above, we entered behind a man singing hymnals and the church bells ringing. A sure sign this is where we belonged for the evening:) Sliding down the stairs you turn right or left and order the Austrian food of your choice, we choose schnitzel and a tomatoe mozzarella salad. Next up you go to the cupboard and grab your 1L mug, rinse it in the washer and throw it to the drafter for the finest beer in Salzburg. We found a seat with an older couple, it was especially crowded, where a language barrier existed. We had a great conversation which led to the gentleman trying his English to let us know Salzburg and our table under the shady chestnuts, is the best place around. He was certainly proud of his country.
We finished the night with a slow walk down the glacier melt Salzach River. Back to our to our 10 mile day:)
